How to get rid of Fruit Flies and Other neat tricks!

Baking Soda and Water Paste

Removes Coffee and Tea Stains with ease from counters, cups and fabric!

GET RID OF MOTHS!!!!

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Five Ways to Use Diaper Wipes
Even if your kids are potty-trained, here are some reasons to keep a few boxes of diaper wipes on hand.


1. Keep a box under your bathroom sink to help keep the vanity top free of makeup and toothpaste smudges between cleaning days. Spiffing up the bathroom every day is a lot easier with disposable wipes than it is to find a rag, spray cleaner over the counter, wipe it down, then toss the hucky rag into the hamper where it might sour before the next wash day. Diaper wipes are usually cheaper per sheet than disinfecting brands.


2. Use as a quick-fix makeup remover.


3. During painting projects, diaper wipes are much more useful than rags. Paint never comes out of fabric -- it just makes it hard, even after laundering. Instead, clean up paint splatters and drips with a wipe, then throw it away.


4. Keep a few in the car for cleaning up those inevitable eating-on-the-go spills and for wiping off muddy shoes.


5. Carry a few in a plastic baggie in your purse to dab on clothing stains. This probably won't totally remove the spot, but it will prevent it from setting and make laundering easier later. Yes, you could carry a Tide stick like Kelly Ripa does, but those things cost nearly $4, way more than a box of wipes!

Remember to Follow Directions When Cleaning

You may be thinking, Well, duh. I'm smart enough to read the directions on the back of cleaning products! That's not what we mean--we're talking about these directions:



In and Out: When vacuuming a room, begin in the side or corner of the room farthest from the door. Vacuum row by row across the carpet, backing out of the room.
Left and Right: Don't sling your rag or tools around randomly. Clean a mirror, for example, by starting in the top left corner and wipe the entire surface by following a wide "S" pattern.
Back to Front: When cleaning a countertop, wipe from back to front. Knock the crumbs off into the floor. Remember to sweep!
High and Low: Since dust abides by the laws of gravity, too, clean the high parts of a room (ceiling fans and crown molding), then the middle (furniture), then the lowest areas (floors).
Clockwise. Move around a room in a clockwise direction when cleaning. Carry supplies in an apron or caddy so it's easy to switch tools as you encounter different surfaces. Circling a space once helps you cover everything and you won't tire out by running all over the place!



By using a directional system when cleaning, your efforts will be more effective and you will finish faster.

Laundry Proceedures

FACTS ABOUT LAUNDRY

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BASIC LAUNDERING PROCEDURES

Laundering sounds as though it couldn't be simpler, especially with today's "easy care" fabrics, automatic appliances and sophisticated laundry products. Care labels on garments should provide adequate instructions on refurbishing the items.

Yet there are some techniques, some "tricks of the trade," that can make a definite difference in the wear-life of washables. They are worth learning, both from an economic and an esthetic standpoint.

There are basically six steps: sorting into loads, preparing clothes for washing, choosing laundry products, washing, drying and sometimes ironing. They all deserve attention and require some know-how for good results.

SORTING INTO WASHER LOADS

Sensible sorting involves more than just making sure a noncolorfast item doesn't get mixed with a white load. It means combining items of similar color, construction and soil level; in other words, items that are compatible with each other and with the washing procedure selected. Even small loads should be sorted, though it may take a while to accumulate enough in each category to make running the washer worthwhile.

Sort by Color...

First and most importantly, sorting should be by color.

Separate:
*White or white-background prints that are colorfast
*Colorfast pastels in solids and prints
*Medium and bright colors, both solids and prints
*Dark colors

Loads of the second and third type can be combined if there is no doubt of colorfastness.

Colorfastness is the resistance of a material to change any of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a result of washing.

Check the care label. If it says "wash separately," this indicates that an item will lose color for at least the first several washings. If there is any doubt, wash separately or only with like colors at least the first few times. Note whether any color bleeds into the wash water. Even trace amounts of dye in the water can transfer to other fabrics, particularly white and light colored nylon.

Sort by Construction and Fabric Type ...

From any of the loads, separate loosely knit or woven fabrics, sheers and "finely" made garments with delicate trimmings, narrow seam allowances or unfinished seams that will fray. These all require a shorter wash time and/or gentler agitation. Also separate from any load the heavy lint-producers, such as chenille robes or spreads, new towels or flannel pajamas and fuzzy sweatsuits. Wash them together if color permits, or wash separately.

Sort by Amount and Kind of Soil ...

Keep heavily soiled or greasy items separate for washing. When heavily soiled pieces are washed with lightly soiled ones, the latter may pick up soil from the wash water. Whites may take on a grey or yellow cast; colors may become dull. Extra work may be needed to get whites white and colors bright again.

Sort by Size...

Try to mix large and small items in each machine load for better washing action. A typical mix for a regular capacity washer might include one or two sheets (twin or full size), several pillowcases, two to four shirts and blouses, with the balance of the load made up of underwear and other small items. Wash large items (blankets, bedspreads, rugs, mattress pads, etc.) separately, adding a few towels if necessary to balance the load for proper spinning action. Generally, two twin-sized bedspreads or blankets can be washed together, but be sure that the bulk does not overload the washer above the recommended level.

PREPARING CLOTHES FOR WASHING

Take a minute before loading each item into the washer to:

*Close zippers and other fasteners to prevent snagging. Tie strings and sashes loosely to avoid tangling.
*Empty pockets. Brush dirt and lint out of cuffs.
*Remove unwashable belts, trimmings, ornaments and pins.
*Mend rips and tears.
*Treat spots, stains and heavily soiled areas (see Stain Removal Chart).

CHOOSING AND ADDING LAUNDRY PRODUCTS

Detergent is the primary dirt remover, and there are different types available. The choice is a matter of personal preference and individual needs. Detergents differ in formulation and in characteristics such as sudsing, density and level of scent. For this reason, recommendations for use may vary from product to product.

Whatever the type or brand, it is important to read and follow label directions to achieve the best results.

Measure the recommended amount by using a standard measuring cup, scoop, specially designed bottlecap or a device provided with the detergent. The amount necessary for good soil removal will vary with the load size, soil conditions, hardness of water and the water volume of the washer.

Label instructions are based generally on the following conditions:

*A 5 to 7 pound (2.3 to 3.2 K) load of clothes
*Moderate soil
*Moderately hard water (3.6 to 7.0 grains per gallon or 61 to 120 parts per million or milligrams per liter)
*Average water volume (17 gallons (64 L) in a top loading washer, or 4-8 gallons in a high-efficiency front loader).

More than the recommended amount may be needed for larger loads, heavy soil, harder water or larger capacity washers. Slightly less than the recommended amount can be used in soft water or for lightly soiled loads. But too much reduction in the detergent "dosage" will result in poor soil removal and possible redeposition of soil on clothes. Measuring is the only way to use a detergent both effectively and economically.

The following chart defines the levels of water hardness generally accepted as "soft," "hard," etc., and can serve as a guide as to whether the manufacturer's use recommendations (based on moderate hardness) should be increased or decreased.

Grains per gallon
0.0 to 3.5 Soft
3.6 to 7.0 Moderately Hard
7.1 to 10.5 Hard
10.6 _ Very Hard

Parts per million or milligrams per liter
0.0 to 60 Soft
61 to 120 Moderately Hard
121 to 180 Hard
More than 180 Very Hard

Other laundry products such as bleaches, detergent boosters, water softeners and conditioners, fabric softeners, etc., assist in turning out good results and help solve special problems. Follow their label directions.

WASHING IN AN AUTOMATIC WASHER

Since the majority of U.S. households own or use top-loading automatic laundry equipment, the following information and suggestions refer primarily to these appliances. They can, however, be adapted to nonautomatic washers. For washing in a high-efficiency washer, follow the machine manufacturer's instructions.

Whatever brand or type of top-loading washer is used, the instruction book is the best guide to specific features and performance characteristics. It provides important how-to-operate information, care requirements and, in addition, much good laundering advice.

Loading the washer ...

First, put the measured amount of detergent and additives such as detergent booster or water softener in the washer tub, following manufacturer's instructions. Then, add clothes and start the washer. Check the washer instruction book for a recommended maximum or optimum load weight and/or a list of items that might be included in a sample load. Use this as a guide. Remember that bulk counts more than weight. Fill the tub loosely so that clothes have room to move freely, and mix items of different sizes. Don't wind large items around the agitator or the tub; they will become tangled.

Setting the controls ...

Most automatic washers provide a choice of water levels, wash and rinse temperatures, washing actions and time.

*Set water level control to match the load size. For smaller loads, check during washing to be sure there's enough water to provide good action. If not, reset water level control to a higher setting and add more detergent.

*Wash water temperature selections are generally "hot," "warm" and "cold." The "hot" setting temperature is that of the house hot water supply when it reaches the washer. The "warm" setting is a 50/50 or a 40/60 hot and cold water mix and will vary with the temperatures of incoming hot and cold water. The "cold" setting, of course, is determined by the incoming supply and can vary from near freezing in some areas in the winter to around 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) in the summer. The choice of hot, warm or cold water for a given load depends largely on the amount and kind of soil, type of fabric and fabric colorfastness. The following will serve as a guide:

Hot

130 degrees F (54.4 degrees C) or above. White and colorfast fabrics, heavily soiled loads and diapers.

Warm

90 degrees F to 110 degrees F (32.2 degrees C to 43.3 degrees C). Noncolorfast fabrics, moderately soiled loads, man-made fibers and permanent press fabrics* knits, silks and woolens.

Cold

80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) or colder. Dark or bright colors that bleed, lightly soiled loads

*Rinse water temperature selections are generally "warm" and "cold." It is not necessary to use warm water for rinsing any loads. A cold rinse is adequate, saves energy and is preferred for permanent press fabrics to reduce wrinkling.

*Washing action may be controlled by the cycle selection ("regular," "delicate," "permanent press," etc.) and/or by wash speed selection ("regular" or "gentle"). Normal or regular agitation is the choice for all but delicate items such as lingerie, rayon fabrics, loose knits, hand washables, blankets and washable woolens. A permanent press cycle usually has normal agitation, but also includes a cool-down rinse before or during the first spin to minimize wrinkling.

*Wash time can be selected from as short as 1 to 2 minutes to as long as 18 minutes, depending on the brand of washer. Choice will also depend on the degree of soil and the construction of fabrics. Check washer manufacturer's instruction book for suggested times.

*Spin speed may be selected on some washers to provide a "regular" and a "slow" or "gentle" spin. On single speed washers, spinning time may be shortened to minimize wrinkling. Regular spin speed removes most of the water and therefore shortens drying time. A slow or short spin should be used for permanent press garments. Washable woolens should be given regular spinning after a gentle wash.

DRYING IN AN AUTOMATIC DRYER

Generally, items that are washed together in a load can be dried together. Shake the damp pieces to loosen them before putting into the dryer. Set aside items you prefer to line dry.

Set controls for "regular" if most of the load is made up of all-cotton fabrics... for "permanent press" if the load contains man-made fibers or permanent press fabrics. The permanent press cycle provides a cool down period at the end and some dryers keep tumbling after the dry period to minimize wrinkling.

If the controls require a setting of "minutes" instead of having an "automatic dry" setting, be careful not to overdry, as this encourages shrinkage and wrinkling. Check dryer instruction book for additional recommendations.

To avoid unnecessary wrinkling and make handling easier, it is always best to remove items from the dryer as soon as it shuts off.

Be sure to clean the lint filter after each use.

IRONING

Many items may not require any ironing. They can be smoothed out, folded or hung up and put away.

In some instances, the appearance of the item is improved simply by touch-up ironing. Other items, like damask tablecloths, require thorough ironing to look their best. Steam ironing helps prevent heat damage to fabrics and generally makes ironing easier.

Sort items that need to be ironed according to the amount of heat needed. Silks and synthetics should be ironed at low temperature settings. Cottons and linens require higher temperatures. For best results, refer to control settings on the iron.

Smaller areas such as collars, cuffs and sleeves should be ironed first, and larger areas last, to keep wrinkling at a minimum.

There are laundry products available to restore body to fabric and improve its appearance. See "Types of Laundry Products" for detailed information about starches, sizings and fabric finishes.

* If heavily soiled, sturdy man-made fibers and permanent press fabrics can be washed in hot water using a permanent press cycle.

FACTS ABOUT LAUNDRY

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REMOVING STAINS FROM WASHABLE ITEMS

Garments can become unwearable long before they wear out if spots and stains are not treated properly and promptly. Many stains will come out in the wash, especially if good laundering techniques are used. Some stains, however, are more complex than others and require special treatment. Treat them as soon as possible. When items remain in a hamper for days, stains become much more difficult to remove. Some stains may even be impossible to remove.

SOME GENERAL RULES

*Try to find out what the stain is, since some can be set by the wrong treatment. When in doubt, rinse or soak in cold water before laundering or applying a stain remover.

*Check colorfastness of item. If unsure whether a treatment will harm the fabric or color, apply the recommended stain remover to a hidden part or a sample of the fabric, such as a clipping from the seam allowance. Rinse out and let dry. If the color or fabric is not damaged, proceed with the treatment.

*When using any bleach, treat the entire item. This will prevent uneven color change, should any occur.

*When removing stains such as lipstick, candle wax or tar, place the stain face down on paper towels and treat from the underside to avoid driving the stain through the fabric.

*Always launder washable items after treating to remove residues of both the stain and the stain remover.

HOW TO REMOVE STAINS

Basically, the following three procedures can be used to deal with stains prior to laundering. The choice depends primarily on the kind and extent of staining.

Soaking

Whether done in a basin, laundry sink or washer, soaking can effectively loosen heavy soils. A product containing enzymes can be helpful in removing protein-based stains. A laundry presoak, detergent and/or an appropriate laundry additive should be mixed in water or added before the clothes. When there's a quantity of items to treat, the washer is handiest. Use either an automatic soak cycle or manually set the controls as needed.

Sorting before soaking is important to prevent dye transfer from one item to another or to keep a white or light item from picking up color that has bled into the water. Soak whites separately from colors. Soak colors that bleed separately or with fabrics of like color. Follow label directions for the presoak, detergent or other additive as to soaking time and temperature. Generally, they call for a 30-minute or longer period in warm or cool water. Spin or wring solution out of the garment before beginning the wash cycle. Elasticized garments should be soaked separately and for just a short period of time. Yellowing can occur with prolonged soaking.

Prewashing

Taking less time than soaking, a prewash provides an agitated washing of loads with heavy or greasy soil that might not come out in a single regular washing. Some washers have a prewash cycle that includes a short soak period; the washer may also advance to the regular wash automatically. Refer to appliance instructions for either an automatic cycle or for setting controls manually to agitate and then spin. A presoak product, detergent and/or other laundry additive should be used in a prewash. Follow with a regular wash using detergent according to label directions.

Pretreating

This involves treating and sometimes completely removing individual spots and stains prior to laundering. Some of the most common methods are:

*Using a prewash soil and stain remover
*Applying and rubbing in
***A liquid detergent - or -
***A paste of water and powder detergent - or -
***A laundry additive - or -
***Bar soap

PRODUCTS FOR REMOVING STAINS

There are a number of laundry products and aids which can be used in stain treatment and removal. The most commonly used products and the stains that they are most effective on are listed below.

Detergents

Form: powders, liquids

Uses: effective in removing most soils

Powders: especially effective on clay and ground-in dirt

Liquids: especially effective on food, greasy and oily stains

Soaps

Form: powders, bars

Uses: When used with washing soda, soap is effective in removing crayon. Bars are especially effective in removing fabric softener, perspiration and tobacco stains

Detergent Boosters

Form: powders, liquids

Uses: especially effective in hard water

Bleaches

Form: sodium hypochlorite, oxygen, color removers

Uses:
Bleaches: All bleaches aid in stain removal and help whiten and brighten fabrics. Sodium hypochlorite bleach is a laundry disinfectant.

Color Removers: reduce or completely remove colored dyes from garments. Effective in removing rust stains or dye stains which have transferred onto white garments

Enzyme Presoak Products Form: powdersUses: especially effective in removing protein stains such as egg, blood, grass, baby formula, dairy products, chocolate and body fluids

Prewash Soil and Stain RemoversForm: aerosols, pump sprays, gels, sticks, liquidsUses: especially effective on polyester fibers and on oil-based stains such as body soils, cosmetics, cooking oils, animal fats and motor oils

For Safety's Sake:

*Read instructions on all products and keep them out of children's reach during use and storage. *Keep products in their original labeled containers. Thoroughly wash any utensils used.
*DO NOT COMBINE STAIN REMOVAL PRODUCTS, especially ammonia and sodium hypochlorite bleach; some chemical mixtures may release irritating gases.
*Never use a highly flammable solvent such as gasoline because vapors can explode.
*Solvents such as cleaning fluid, denatured alcohol or turpentine should be used only in ` well-v`ntilate` room, `way from open flame and pilot lights. They should never be inhaled. Clothes treated with solvents should be rinsed before washing.

Sorting it Out
About Detergents
Washday Helpers
Label Savvy
Garment Savvy
Sorting Secrets
Spot Attack
Laundry Tips

Bubbles Mainpage Bubble Recipe Bigger Better Bubbles The Bubble Path Bubble Magic The Predictable POP! The Pop-proof Bubble!The Square Bubble? Bubblemania: Bubble Sculpture & Bubble Art Bubble Brainer: Boosters & Blasters Bubbleology: Telescope & Bubblearium Bubble Brainer: Riddle Ode to a Bubble

Care for ALL Wood Floors


Do's:

Do: Place Protector pads on ALL furniture legs on wood floor

Do: Place walk off mats and area rugs in high traffic areas (make sure they stay dry and are cleaned underneath often)

Do: Perform routine maintenance as recommended by manufacturer, this should include sweeping, vacuuming (with a soft brush attachment) and/or dust mopping to remove dirt and grit. Keep this as a regularly scheduled event, and stick to it. Always perform this process before and after a major event that involves a high volume of traffic on the floor.

Do: Use the proper cleaning pad with the manufacturer recommended cleaning solution. The pad should be slightly damp and well rung out. Make sure ALWAYS to use a clean pad/cloth each time your start the cleaning process. These pads can be washed after excessive buildup.

Do: Keep high heel shoes in good repairs , as well as keeping your pets nails trimmed on a regular bases

Do Not's:

Do Not: Use WET mops

Do Not: Use ammonia

Do Not: Use dust cleaners

Do Not: Track dirt, clean immediately

Do Not: Use other floor cleaning products

Do Not: Wax a urethane finish- NEVER !


Three simple steps:

1. Vacuum
2. Spray the proper cleaning solution
3. Clean with proper mop

Specific Types of Finishes

Learn More Types of Wood Floor Finishes

Acrylic-Impregnated ( 2 types: WITH and WITHOUT urethane coatings)

*Non-urethane: Low speed buffing with proper cleaning products and pad as recommended by manufacturer
*Use proper dust mop treatments
*White products require special procedures, making sure never to use water or petroleum based products
*Screening (light sanding) in addition to above procedures may be required
*Always follow manufacturers recommendations, and if in doubt, check with a local professional wood floor contractor

Surface Finishes-(includes conversion varnish, moisture-cured urethane, oil-modified polyurethane, and water-based urethane)

*Follow of complete program of proper maintenance procedures (see above)
*Always follow and use manufacturers suggest products and procedures, if product manufacturer is unknown, use GENERIC HARDWOOD FLOOR CLEANER available at local wood floor retail outlets
*Warranties by most manufacturers are VOIDED if oil soap and products containing wax cleaners are used
*Wipe and clean immediately all spills, and dirt tracking. Stubborn stains should be cleaned with proper cleaning solution as recommended by manufacturer, using a soft dampened cloth. For stubborn stains repeat using wood floor cleaner & soft cloth
*NEVER use a wax or wax based products over surface finishes. NOTE: This can be a VERY DANGEROUS !
*If finish losses it's luster, screening (light sanding) and recoating may be necessary . This should be done ONLY by a professional wood floor contractor (See details below)


Wax Finish

*Always immediately wipe spills with a soft dry cloth, buffing may be necessary
*White spots from water can be rubbed out with a fine steel wood and a small amount of mineral spirits, re-wax and buff as needed to match
*Buffing areas of heavy traffic will return luster, if not re-waxing may need to occur for that area, with buffing the blend


*Cleaners, and manufacturers conditioners can be used over waxed floors, always paying careful attention to manufactures directions and procedures
*NEVER use a wax finish over surface finishes. This can be a VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION

NOTE: Wood floors that have been waxed over and over through the years, may be a serious concern if refinishing (to bare wood). Surface finishes may not and more than most, will NOT adhere properly (a sure sign is prolonged drying time), and/or if it does adhere , failure is almost certain as wear will become excessive early on.

Recoating Fast Facts : Buffing, Recoating, Screening and Resanding a hardwood floor should be performed by an experienced hardwood floor professional. Some Hardwood floors can not be successfully recoated, as those with different light exposure that have caused discoloration under area carpets, or those improperly cleaned with oil soaps, other cleaning solutions, all contaminating the floor which will cause guaranteed failure.

*Worn areas (through the finish and/or stain) to bare wood can not be recoated to give desired results, refinishing must occur
*Oil soaps, improper cleaning products, and other unknown contaminates can cause assured recoat failure
*Screening (light sanding with proper grit screen/paper) will ensure proper adhesion of the new finish
*Prefinished or factory finished floors can be screened and recoated following manufacturers direction, using the proper/compatible finish.

When your hard wood floor needs extra care.
Damp mopping.
Maintenance coat.
Removing stains in waxed floors.
Removing stains and repairing surface finishes.
Squeaks.


CLEAN FLOORS

How to clean floors?

How to clean and maintain Wood Floors


Sealer's Choice Gold
AQUA MIX SEALER'S CHOICETM GOLD is a premium, no-sheen, natural-look, water-based, penetrating sealer formulated to provide maximum stain protection, especially in food preparation and serving areas. May also be used as a pre-grouting sealer. Allows moisture vapor transmission. It is also an excellent grout sealer.
Use on all natural stone (such as marble, granite, slate, travertine, and limestone), porcelain, quarry, saltillo, terra cotta, cement pavers, masonry surfaces, and other porous tile and grout where a natural look is desired. Effective for interior and exterior applications.


Grout Sealer
AQUA MIX GROUT SEALER is a water-based sealer that resists water, oil and acid-based contaminants. Simplifies maintenance and does not change the appearance of the grout. Allows moisture vapor transmission.
Uses: Suitable for interior and exterior use on cementitious sanded and unsanded grout joints. 2 (930 to 1,860 m2)

Enrich'N'Seal
AQUA MIX ENRICH'N'SEALTM is a premium, no-sheen, enhanced-look penetrating sealer formulated to darken, enrich and highlight the character and beauty of unsealed natural stone. It rejuvenates the color and improves the appearance of worn and weathered stone. May also be used as a pre-grouting sealer. Allows moisture-vapor transmission. It also effectively seals and darkens the color of grout joints.
Uses: Use on unsealed natural stone such as marble, granite, slate, limestone, travertine, quartzite and sandstone. Effective for interior and exterior applications..


Stone Enhancer
AQUA MIX STONE ENHANCER is an excellent, no-sheen, enhanced-look penetrating sealer formulated to darken and highlight the character and beauty of unsealed natural stone. It rejuvenates the color and improves the appearance of worn and weathered stone. May also be used as a pre-grouting sealer. Allows moisture-vapor transmission. It also effectively seals and darkens the color of grout joints.
Uses: Use on unsealed natural stone such as unpolished marble, granite, slate, limestone, travertine, quartzite and sandstone. Effective for interior and exterior applications.

Heavy-Duty Tile & Grout Cleaner
AQUA MIX HEAVY-DUTY TILE & GROUT CLEANER is a concentrated, high-alkaline cleaner and degreaser. Effectively removes grease, soap scum, body oil, mildew stains, and algae from areas that have been neglected or subjected to heavy use. Especially formulated to strip off synthetic and acrylic waxes and floor finishes.
Uses: Use on natural stone (such as granite, limestone, slate, and travertine), ceramic, porcelain, quarry, saltillo, terra cotta, cement pavers, masonry surfaces, linoleum, or resilient flooring.


Stone Deep Clean
AQUA MIX STONE DEEP CLEAN is a concentrated heavy-duty cleaner and degreaser designed to clean stone surfaces that have been neglected or subjected to heavy use. Effectively removes dirt, grease, and grime. Also removes waxes and floor finishes.
Uses: Use on all natural stone (such as granite, limestone, slate, and travertine), ceramic, porcelain, grout, quarry, saltillo, terra cotta, cement pavers, masonry surfaces, linoleum, or resilient flooring.

Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner
AQUA MIX CONCENTRATED STONE & TILE CLEANER is a super-concentrated, cleaner formulated for everyday use. This neutral cleaner, when used regularly, prevents soap scum build up and hard water deposits. Leaves a room smelling clean and fresh.
Uses: Use on natural stone (such as granite, limestone, marble, slate, and travertine), ceramic, porcelain, grout, quarry, saltillo, terra cotta, cement pavers, masonry surfaces, and other water-safe surfaces.


Stone Clean & Shine
AQUA MIX STONE CLEAN & SHINE is a spray-and-buff cleaner that is designed to enhance the natural beauty of the stone as it cleans. Regular use helps protect factory polish.
Uses: Use on all SEALED, polished natural stone (such as granite, limestone, marble, slate, and travertine), countertops, and non-traffic surfaces.


Antibacterial Cleaner
This product not only helps control the hazards of cross-contamination on treated, hard, nonporous, environmental surfaces, but also kills many microorganisms that cause odors. Is recommended for disinfecting hard, nonporous surfaces. Is formulated for use in the household (homes), schools, colleges, and office buildings.
Kills household germs; effective against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Salmonella choleraesuis, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete's Foot Fungus). Virucidal against Herpes Simplext Virus Type 2 (Herpes) and Influenza Type A/Brazil (Influenza).
Uses: KITCHEN: Kitchen floors collect both traffic dirt and kitchen germs. Use anywhere greasy dirt is a problem.
BATHROOM: Great for cleaning and deodorizing basins, tubs, and tiles. Leaves everything bright and clean, kills odor-causing bacteria. Odors disappear instantly. Use where odors are a problem.


Poultice Stain Remover
AQUA MIX POULTICE STAIN REMOVER is a dual purpose, non-acidic problem solver. It is an absorptive clay that is designed to remove deep-set oil and grease stains without scrubbing. It is also a fine abrasive cleaning powder that removes stubborn surface stains and light grout haze.
Uses: Use on all natural stone (such as granite, limestone, marble, slate, and travertine), porcelain, quarry, saltillo, terra cotta, cement pavers, masonry surfaces, and other porous tile and grout.


CLEANERS:





Butcher's Wax has been an American favorite since 1880. Great on Floors, Sculptures, Concrete Countertops, Painted Surfaces, Metal, Cooper and many other surfaces that need protection without discoloration. 16 oz. can. Usually ships within 1-2 days. ABSOLUTE BEST WAX!

Online Store
PolyCare Cleaner
Bruce Armstrong Floor Cleaner
Shaw Cleaner
Mohawk Cleaner
Mannington Cleaner
Kahrs Cleaner
Tarkett Cleaner
Pergo Cleaner
Basic Cleaner
Bona Cleaner
WoodWise Cleaner
Minwax Cleaner
Ceramic Porcelain Tile Cleaner
Carpet Rug Cleaner
Granite Marble Tile Countertop Cleaner
Microfiber Cloth/Mop


Online Floor Care StoreHardwood and Laminate Floor Cleaners:
Armstrong Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner Spray(32oz); Sale Price: $8.99;
Armstrong Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaner Refill; Price: $10.50;
Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Floor Cleaner 32 oz.Price: $8.99;
Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Floor Care System; Price: $32.80;
Bona Hardwood FloorWipe System; Price: $24.80;
Bona MicroPlus™ Floor Cleaning Pad 4"x15"; Price: $10.20;
Bona MicroPlus™ Cleaning Cover Twin Pack (for FloorWipe Kits) 8"x15"; Price:$18.20;
Bruce Dura-Luster® No-Wax Hardwood Floor Cleaner 32 oz.;Price: $9.99;
Mohawk Hard Surface Cleaner-FloorCare Essentials Cleaner;Sale Price: $8.99;
Pergo Laminate Floor Cleaner Spray; Price: $8.95;
Kahrs Hardwood Floor Cleaner 32oz. Spray; Price: $14.4;
PolyCare Ready To Use Wood Floor Cleaner 20 oz Spray;Price: $5.95;
PolyCare Concentrate Wood Floor Cleaner 20 oz.; Price: $6.90;
PolyCare Hardwood Floor Scuff Remover 20 oz.; Price: $8.95;Floor Care Kit:
Armstrong Hardwood & Laminate Floor Cleaning System;Sale Price: $29.99;
Bruce Dura-Luster® Floor Care Kit; Price: $24.95;
Mohawk FloorCare Essentials Hard Surface Care Kit;Price: $49.00;
PolyCare Floor Mop Kit; Sale Price: $23.95;
Mohawk Carpet Care Kit (Carpet Cleaner Spray Kit);Sale Price: $24.29;
Kahrs Hardwood Floor Care Kit; Price: $38.00;Ceramic and Porcelain Tile Cleaner:
Mohawk Hard Surface Cleaner; Sale Price: $8.99;
Mohawk Tile & Grout Cleaner; Price: $9.99;Carpet and Rug Cleaner:
Mohawk Carpet Care Kit (Carpet Cleaner Spray Kit);Sale Price: $24.29;
Mohawk Carpet Spot Remover (Spray); Price: $9.99;
Mohawk Odor Eliminator; Price: $9.99;

Simple Wood Floor Cleaner GREEN GUIDE

By Solvie Karlstrom All Posts
Filed under: Cleaning products, Floors
10:04 am - January 5, 2007

We finally removed the big old rug remnant in the centermost space of our apartment that we got for our kids to play on nearly two decades ago. We replaced it with an area rug made of natural fibers, no glues and colors, derived from tea. The new rug is likely to last much longer, it being of better quality, but it is smaller than the old remnant exposing a foot-wide ring of wood floor in serious need of attention. Rather than use a commercial floor cleaner, I looked up the incredibly simple recipe my friend had shared with me - 1 cup white vinegar (or 1/4 cup borax) to a gallon of water. I added a little bit of liquid soap this time, to help with a few sticky spots. After a good cleaning and then a rinsing to make sure no soap residue was left behind, the luster of the wood was fully restored and the room was filled with a light clean smell, not overwhelmed by the fragrances of a store bought brand. I think sometimes that I can see where the old rug used to be, but I think that's just my eyes playing tricks on me. The floor looks great.
For other simple recipes for home cleaners, as well as lists of non-toxic store brands, see our guide to Household Cleaning Products.© The Green Guide, 2007
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DREFT Laundry Tips
Having a baby can change almost everything in your household - including how you tackle laundry and your family’s fabric care needs. Dreft® is here to help with a gentle clean and these handy laundry tips.

Results for individual fabrics may vary. Before treating any garment, always first refer to the instructions on the care label.

tips
removing stains
removing oily stains
removing diaper soils
pretreating spots
storage of hand me downs

Make sure to wash everything that may touch your baby's skin in Dreft® before your bundle of joy arrives, including:

*Clothes
*Undergarments such as t-shirts, bodysuits, socks, pants, sleepwear and all other clothing items *Towels/washcloths
*Bibs

*Bedding: sheets, blankets, comforters etc.
*Receiving blankets
*Car seat, stroller, and playpen fabrics
*Mom's shirts
*Anything else that could come in contact with baby's skin

When you pre-wash your baby items before baby comes home, do not use fabric softener on these items. Fabric softener may reduce flame resistance when used on children’s sleepwear or other garments labeled as flame resistant.

Clean Granite
TO REMOVE BUTTER OR OIL STAIN FROM GRANITE COUNTERTOP

USE A PAPER TOWEL FOLDED SEVERAL TIMES AND SOAK WITH Acetone [link is to product info at Rockler]. COVER WITH PLASTIC, THEN TAPE THIS OVER THE STAIN (SO IT DOES NOT DRY OUT) AND LEAVE OVERNIGHT. I HAVE SEARCHED, ASKED AND TRIED EVERYTHING. THIS FINALLY WORKED!!!

Removing Stains From Stone, Tile and Concrete

Removing stains from marble, granite and ceramic tile can prove difficult. There are, however, several precautionary measures you can take:


Any spill should be cleaned as soon as possible. Blot spills with a paper towel or clean rag. At this stage, it is important only to blot; wiping a spill may spread it over a larger area, making a larger mess. Use only cold water and stone soap or a neutral cleaner. Rinse the area several times. If a stain is still present, a chemical poultice may have to be applied.

Avoid using chemicals of any kind until you know which chemical cleaner to use. (See "Choosing a Chemical" below) Certain chemicals will react with the spilled material and could make the stain permanent.

Marble, granite and certain ceramic tile are porous materials. If not thoroughly sealed, they will stain. The only way a stain can be removed is to literally pull it out of the stone or ceramic with both a chemical and material that will absorb the stain. This chemical absorbent-material combination is what we call a poultice.


Poultices are commonly powder or cloth materials that can be mixed with a chemical and placed on top of the stain. Refer to the table below for some of the more common poultice materials. Clays and diatomaceous earth are safe and readily available, but do not use whiting or clays containing iron with an acidic chemical; iron will react with the acid, and may cause rust staining. It is best to purchase powders that are designed specifically for stone and tile. Consult a stone restoration specialist or your stone supplier if in doubt.



Poultice materials:

Paper towels
Cotton balls
Gauze pads
Clays such as Attapulgite, Kaolin, Fuller's Earth
Talc Chalk (whiting)
Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)Diatomaceous earth
Methyl cellulose
Flour
Saw dust


How to apply a poultice


Before you attempt to remove a stain, it is extremely important to know what has caused it. If you don't know, I would recommend that you consult a stone specialist, or refer to my book on stain removal for a detailed description of the procedure.


To apply a poultice, take the following steps:


1. Clean the stained area with water and stone soap. Remember to blot rather than wipe.

2. Pre-wet the stained area with a little water. Distilled water is recommended.

3. Refer to the chart below and determine which chemical to use for the stain.

4. Mix the poultice material with the selected chemical. Mix until a thick peanut-butter paste consistency is obtained.

5. Apply the paste to the stained area, overlapping the stain by at least ¼". Do not make the application too thick, or it will take a long time to dry.

6. Cover the paste with a plastic sandwich bag or food wrap. Tape the plastic using a low-contact tape.

7. Allow the paste to sit for 12–24 hours.

8. Remove the plastic cover and check to see if the paste has dried. If it has not, allow it to sit uncovered until thoroughly dry.

9. Once it is dry, remove the paste by scraping and rinse the area.

10. Examine the stain. If it still remains, but is somewhat lighter, re-poultice until it is gone. If the stain refuses to disappear completely, it is time to give up, replace the tile or call a stone specialist.


Stain removal can be very difficult, and care must be taken when using a poultice.

Stain Poultice with

Rust Iron Out
Coffee and tea Hydrogen Peroxide
Ink, magic marker, etc. Methylene Chloride (use with extreme care)
Oil Ammonia or a degreaser
Paint Mineral Spirits


Please use extra caution when handling all chemicals listed above. Thoroughly read Material Safety Data Sheets for each chemical before use.

Marble or Granite?


I am building a new house and would like to use some type of stone for my kitchen countertops. Is marble or granite best?


Both marble and granite can be used for a kitchen counter but each has its advantages and disadvantages. Marble is available in an unlimited number of colors. It scratches very easily though. If you are going to be cutting meats and vegetables marble is a poor choice. Granite is very scratch resistant and will take cutting, however granite can be very porous and if you are doing a lot of cooking with hot oil, granite can stain easily. Granite can be protected against staining if you seal it with a good quality stone sealer. Most kitchen stone kitchen countertops are granite and overall is a good choice.


Is granite acid resistant?


Warning: There is one acid that will severely etch, pit and dull a polished granite surface. This acid is known as Hydrofluoric acid (HF) and is found in many rust removers. If you have experienced etching on granite surfaces, and you are using such a product, you may want to check the label and see if it contains Hydrofluoric acid. If it does, the granite may need to be repaired.


Black Granite Fading


I have received numerous calls lately concerning the fading of black granite counter tops. Why does black granite fade?



The answer is, black granite should not fade. Black granite imported from Asia is sometimes Doctored with dyes and oils to darken the surface. The fading is nothing more than the dyes and oils being removed. Unfortunately, the only fix is to re-polish the top. This can be costly.


Before purchasing a granite top perform the following test to find out if it has been doctored.


Take a clean white rag and apply a some acetone to the surface of the granite. If any residue or black color is observed on the top, do not accept it, it has been dyed.


Removing Rust


Rust is one of the most difficult stains to remove from marble, granite and other stone surfaces. Many of the rust removers available in stores can damage stone. We have found a great method for removing rust stains.


A product called Iron Out is available from most home centers and hardware stores. This product is a white powder that is designed for removing iron from water softeners, but also works great for removing iron and other metal stains from stone.


To remove iron stains mix I part Iron Out to 2 parts poultice powder (diatomaceous earth). Add water until you get a soupy consistency. Apply this mixture to the iron stain, cover with plastic and let it sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours remove the poultice and reapply if necessary.


For more information on iron and other stain removal see the book Stain Removal Guide for Stone, available from The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades at 800-841-7199.