Laundry Proceedures
Yet there are some techniques, some "tricks of the trade," that can make a definite difference in the wear-life of washables. They are worth learning, both from an economic and an esthetic standpoint.
There are basically six steps: sorting into loads, preparing clothes for washing, choosing laundry products, washing, drying and sometimes ironing. They all deserve attention and require some know-how for good results.
*Close zippers and other fasteners to prevent snagging. Tie strings and sashes loosely to avoid tangling.
*Empty pockets. Brush dirt and lint out of cuffs.
*Remove unwashable belts, trimmings, ornaments and pins.
*Mend rips and tears.
*Treat spots, stains and heavily soiled areas (see Stain Removal Chart).
Whatever the type or brand, it is important to read and follow label directions to achieve the best results.
Measure the recommended amount by using a standard measuring cup, scoop, specially designed bottlecap or a device provided with the detergent. The amount necessary for good soil removal will vary with the load size, soil conditions, hardness of water and the water volume of the washer.
Label instructions are based generally on the following conditions:
*A 5 to 7 pound (2.3 to 3.2 K) load of clothes
*Moderate soil
*Moderately hard water (3.6 to 7.0 grains per gallon or 61 to 120 parts per million or milligrams per liter)
*Average water volume (17 gallons (64 L) in a top loading washer, or 4-8 gallons in a high-efficiency front loader).
The following chart defines the levels of water hardness generally accepted as "soft," "hard," etc., and can serve as a guide as to whether the manufacturer's use recommendations (based on moderate hardness) should be increased or decreased.
Grains per gallon
0.0 to 3.5 Soft
3.6 to 7.0 Moderately Hard
7.1 to 10.5 Hard
10.6 _ Very Hard
Parts per million or milligrams per liter
0.0 to 60 Soft
61 to 120 Moderately Hard
121 to 180 Hard
More than 180 Very Hard
Other laundry products such as bleaches, detergent boosters, water softeners and conditioners, fabric softeners, etc., assist in turning out good results and help solve special problems. Follow their label directions.
Whatever brand or type of top-loading washer is used, the instruction book is the best guide to specific features and performance characteristics. It provides important how-to-operate information, care requirements and, in addition, much good laundering advice.
*Set water level control to match the load size. For smaller loads, check during washing to be sure there's enough water to provide good action. If not, reset water level control to a higher setting and add more detergent.
*Wash water temperature selections are generally "hot," "warm" and "cold." The "hot" setting temperature is that of the house hot water supply when it reaches the washer. The "warm" setting is a 50/50 or a 40/60 hot and cold water mix and will vary with the temperatures of incoming hot and cold water. The "cold" setting, of course, is determined by the incoming supply and can vary from near freezing in some areas in the winter to around 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) in the summer. The choice of hot, warm or cold water for a given load depends largely on the amount and kind of soil, type of fabric and fabric colorfastness. The following will serve as a guide:
*Rinse water temperature selections are generally "warm" and "cold." It is not necessary to use warm water for rinsing any loads. A cold rinse is adequate, saves energy and is preferred for permanent press fabrics to reduce wrinkling.
*Washing action may be controlled by the cycle selection ("regular," "delicate," "permanent press," etc.) and/or by wash speed selection ("regular" or "gentle"). Normal or regular agitation is the choice for all but delicate items such as lingerie, rayon fabrics, loose knits, hand washables, blankets and washable woolens. A permanent press cycle usually has normal agitation, but also includes a cool-down rinse before or during the first spin to minimize wrinkling.
If the controls require a setting of "minutes" instead of having an "automatic dry" setting, be careful not to overdry, as this encourages shrinkage and wrinkling. Check dryer instruction book for additional recommendations.
Be sure to clean the lint filter after each use.
In some instances, the appearance of the item is improved simply by touch-up ironing. Other items, like damask tablecloths, require thorough ironing to look their best. Steam ironing helps prevent heat damage to fabrics and generally makes ironing easier.
Sort items that need to be ironed according to the amount of heat needed. Silks and synthetics should be ironed at low temperature settings. Cottons and linens require higher temperatures. For best results, refer to control settings on the iron.
Smaller areas such as collars, cuffs and sleeves should be ironed first, and larger areas last, to keep wrinkling at a minimum.
There are laundry products available to restore body to fabric and improve its appearance. See "Types of Laundry Products" for detailed information about starches, sizings and fabric finishes.
*Check colorfastness of item. If unsure whether a treatment will harm the fabric or color, apply the recommended stain remover to a hidden part or a sample of the fabric, such as a clipping from the seam allowance. Rinse out and let dry. If the color or fabric is not damaged, proceed with the treatment.
*When using any bleach, treat the entire item. This will prevent uneven color change, should any occur.
*When removing stains such as lipstick, candle wax or tar, place the stain face down on paper towels and treat from the underside to avoid driving the stain through the fabric.
Laundering sounds as though it couldn't be simpler, especially with today's "easy care" fabrics, automatic appliances and sophisticated laundry products. Care labels on garments should provide adequate instructions on refurbishing the items.
Yet there are some techniques, some "tricks of the trade," that can make a definite difference in the wear-life of washables. They are worth learning, both from an economic and an esthetic standpoint.
There are basically six steps: sorting into loads, preparing clothes for washing, choosing laundry products, washing, drying and sometimes ironing. They all deserve attention and require some know-how for good results.
SORTING INTO WASHER LOADS
Sensible sorting involves more than just making sure a noncolorfast item doesn't get mixed with a white load. It means combining items of similar color, construction and soil level; in other words, items that are compatible with each other and with the washing procedure selected. Even small loads should be sorted, though it may take a while to accumulate enough in each category to make running the washer worthwhile.
Sort by Color...
First and most importantly, sorting should be by color.
Separate:
*White or white-background prints that are colorfast
*Colorfast pastels in solids and prints
*Medium and bright colors, both solids and prints
*Dark colors
*White or white-background prints that are colorfast
*Colorfast pastels in solids and prints
*Medium and bright colors, both solids and prints
*Dark colors
Loads of the second and third type can be combined if there is no doubt of colorfastness.
Colorfastness is the resistance of a material to change any of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a result of washing.
Check the care label. If it says "wash separately," this indicates that an item will lose color for at least the first several washings. If there is any doubt, wash separately or only with like colors at least the first few times. Note whether any color bleeds into the wash water. Even trace amounts of dye in the water can transfer to other fabrics, particularly white and light colored nylon.
Sort by Construction and Fabric Type ...
From any of the loads, separate loosely knit or woven fabrics, sheers and "finely" made garments with delicate trimmings, narrow seam allowances or unfinished seams that will fray. These all require a shorter wash time and/or gentler agitation. Also separate from any load the heavy lint-producers, such as chenille robes or spreads, new towels or flannel pajamas and fuzzy sweatsuits. Wash them together if color permits, or wash separately.
Sort by Amount and Kind of Soil ...
Keep heavily soiled or greasy items separate for washing. When heavily soiled pieces are washed with lightly soiled ones, the latter may pick up soil from the wash water. Whites may take on a grey or yellow cast; colors may become dull. Extra work may be needed to get whites white and colors bright again.
Sort by Size...
Try to mix large and small items in each machine load for better washing action. A typical mix for a regular capacity washer might include one or two sheets (twin or full size), several pillowcases, two to four shirts and blouses, with the balance of the load made up of underwear and other small items. Wash large items (blankets, bedspreads, rugs, mattress pads, etc.) separately, adding a few towels if necessary to balance the load for proper spinning action. Generally, two twin-sized bedspreads or blankets can be washed together, but be sure that the bulk does not overload the washer above the recommended level.
PREPARING CLOTHES FOR WASHING
Take a minute before loading each item into the washer to:
*Close zippers and other fasteners to prevent snagging. Tie strings and sashes loosely to avoid tangling.
*Empty pockets. Brush dirt and lint out of cuffs.
*Remove unwashable belts, trimmings, ornaments and pins.
*Mend rips and tears.
*Treat spots, stains and heavily soiled areas (see Stain Removal Chart).
CHOOSING AND ADDING LAUNDRY PRODUCTS
Detergent is the primary dirt remover, and there are different types available. The choice is a matter of personal preference and individual needs. Detergents differ in formulation and in characteristics such as sudsing, density and level of scent. For this reason, recommendations for use may vary from product to product.
Whatever the type or brand, it is important to read and follow label directions to achieve the best results.
Measure the recommended amount by using a standard measuring cup, scoop, specially designed bottlecap or a device provided with the detergent. The amount necessary for good soil removal will vary with the load size, soil conditions, hardness of water and the water volume of the washer.
Label instructions are based generally on the following conditions:
*A 5 to 7 pound (2.3 to 3.2 K) load of clothes
*Moderate soil
*Moderately hard water (3.6 to 7.0 grains per gallon or 61 to 120 parts per million or milligrams per liter)
*Average water volume (17 gallons (64 L) in a top loading washer, or 4-8 gallons in a high-efficiency front loader).
More than the recommended amount may be needed for larger loads, heavy soil, harder water or larger capacity washers. Slightly less than the recommended amount can be used in soft water or for lightly soiled loads. But too much reduction in the detergent "dosage" will result in poor soil removal and possible redeposition of soil on clothes. Measuring is the only way to use a detergent both effectively and economically.
The following chart defines the levels of water hardness generally accepted as "soft," "hard," etc., and can serve as a guide as to whether the manufacturer's use recommendations (based on moderate hardness) should be increased or decreased.
Grains per gallon
0.0 to 3.5 Soft
3.6 to 7.0 Moderately Hard
7.1 to 10.5 Hard
10.6 _ Very Hard
Parts per million or milligrams per liter
0.0 to 60 Soft
61 to 120 Moderately Hard
121 to 180 Hard
More than 180 Very Hard
Other laundry products such as bleaches, detergent boosters, water softeners and conditioners, fabric softeners, etc., assist in turning out good results and help solve special problems. Follow their label directions.
WASHING IN AN AUTOMATIC WASHER
Since the majority of U.S. households own or use top-loading automatic laundry equipment, the following information and suggestions refer primarily to these appliances. They can, however, be adapted to nonautomatic washers. For washing in a high-efficiency washer, follow the machine manufacturer's instructions.
Whatever brand or type of top-loading washer is used, the instruction book is the best guide to specific features and performance characteristics. It provides important how-to-operate information, care requirements and, in addition, much good laundering advice.
Loading the washer ...
First, put the measured amount of detergent and additives such as detergent booster or water softener in the washer tub, following manufacturer's instructions. Then, add clothes and start the washer. Check the washer instruction book for a recommended maximum or optimum load weight and/or a list of items that might be included in a sample load. Use this as a guide. Remember that bulk counts more than weight. Fill the tub loosely so that clothes have room to move freely, and mix items of different sizes. Don't wind large items around the agitator or the tub; they will become tangled.
Setting the controls ...
Most automatic washers provide a choice of water levels, wash and rinse temperatures, washing actions and time.
*Set water level control to match the load size. For smaller loads, check during washing to be sure there's enough water to provide good action. If not, reset water level control to a higher setting and add more detergent.
*Wash water temperature selections are generally "hot," "warm" and "cold." The "hot" setting temperature is that of the house hot water supply when it reaches the washer. The "warm" setting is a 50/50 or a 40/60 hot and cold water mix and will vary with the temperatures of incoming hot and cold water. The "cold" setting, of course, is determined by the incoming supply and can vary from near freezing in some areas in the winter to around 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) in the summer. The choice of hot, warm or cold water for a given load depends largely on the amount and kind of soil, type of fabric and fabric colorfastness. The following will serve as a guide:
Hot
130 degrees F (54.4 degrees C) or above. White and colorfast fabrics, heavily soiled loads and diapers.
Warm
90 degrees F to 110 degrees F (32.2 degrees C to 43.3 degrees C). Noncolorfast fabrics, moderately soiled loads, man-made fibers and permanent press fabrics* knits, silks and woolens.
Cold
80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) or colder. Dark or bright colors that bleed, lightly soiled loads
*Rinse water temperature selections are generally "warm" and "cold." It is not necessary to use warm water for rinsing any loads. A cold rinse is adequate, saves energy and is preferred for permanent press fabrics to reduce wrinkling.
*Washing action may be controlled by the cycle selection ("regular," "delicate," "permanent press," etc.) and/or by wash speed selection ("regular" or "gentle"). Normal or regular agitation is the choice for all but delicate items such as lingerie, rayon fabrics, loose knits, hand washables, blankets and washable woolens. A permanent press cycle usually has normal agitation, but also includes a cool-down rinse before or during the first spin to minimize wrinkling.
*Wash time can be selected from as short as 1 to 2 minutes to as long as 18 minutes, depending on the brand of washer. Choice will also depend on the degree of soil and the construction of fabrics. Check washer manufacturer's instruction book for suggested times.
*Spin speed may be selected on some washers to provide a "regular" and a "slow" or "gentle" spin. On single speed washers, spinning time may be shortened to minimize wrinkling. Regular spin speed removes most of the water and therefore shortens drying time. A slow or short spin should be used for permanent press garments. Washable woolens should be given regular spinning after a gentle wash.
DRYING IN AN AUTOMATIC DRYER
Generally, items that are washed together in a load can be dried together. Shake the damp pieces to loosen them before putting into the dryer. Set aside items you prefer to line dry.
Set controls for "regular" if most of the load is made up of all-cotton fabrics... for "permanent press" if the load contains man-made fibers or permanent press fabrics. The permanent press cycle provides a cool down period at the end and some dryers keep tumbling after the dry period to minimize wrinkling.
If the controls require a setting of "minutes" instead of having an "automatic dry" setting, be careful not to overdry, as this encourages shrinkage and wrinkling. Check dryer instruction book for additional recommendations.
To avoid unnecessary wrinkling and make handling easier, it is always best to remove items from the dryer as soon as it shuts off.
Be sure to clean the lint filter after each use.
IRONING
Many items may not require any ironing. They can be smoothed out, folded or hung up and put away.
In some instances, the appearance of the item is improved simply by touch-up ironing. Other items, like damask tablecloths, require thorough ironing to look their best. Steam ironing helps prevent heat damage to fabrics and generally makes ironing easier.
Sort items that need to be ironed according to the amount of heat needed. Silks and synthetics should be ironed at low temperature settings. Cottons and linens require higher temperatures. For best results, refer to control settings on the iron.
Smaller areas such as collars, cuffs and sleeves should be ironed first, and larger areas last, to keep wrinkling at a minimum.
There are laundry products available to restore body to fabric and improve its appearance. See "Types of Laundry Products" for detailed information about starches, sizings and fabric finishes.
Garments can become unwearable long before they wear out if spots and stains are not treated properly and promptly. Many stains will come out in the wash, especially if good laundering techniques are used. Some stains, however, are more complex than others and require special treatment. Treat them as soon as possible. When items remain in a hamper for days, stains become much more difficult to remove. Some stains may even be impossible to remove.
SOME GENERAL RULES
*Try to find out what the stain is, since some can be set by the wrong treatment. When in doubt, rinse or soak in cold water before laundering or applying a stain remover.
*Check colorfastness of item. If unsure whether a treatment will harm the fabric or color, apply the recommended stain remover to a hidden part or a sample of the fabric, such as a clipping from the seam allowance. Rinse out and let dry. If the color or fabric is not damaged, proceed with the treatment.
*When using any bleach, treat the entire item. This will prevent uneven color change, should any occur.
*When removing stains such as lipstick, candle wax or tar, place the stain face down on paper towels and treat from the underside to avoid driving the stain through the fabric.
*Always launder washable items after treating to remove residues of both the stain and the stain remover.
HOW TO REMOVE STAINS
Basically, the following three procedures can be used to deal with stains prior to laundering. The choice depends primarily on the kind and extent of staining.
Soaking
Whether done in a basin, laundry sink or washer, soaking can effectively loosen heavy soils. A product containing enzymes can be helpful in removing protein-based stains. A laundry presoak, detergent and/or an appropriate laundry additive should be mixed in water or added before the clothes. When there's a quantity of items to treat, the washer is handiest. Use either an automatic soak cycle or manually set the controls as needed.
Sorting before soaking is important to prevent dye transfer from one item to another or to keep a white or light item from picking up color that has bled into the water. Soak whites separately from colors. Soak colors that bleed separately or with fabrics of like color. Follow label directions for the presoak, detergent or other additive as to soaking time and temperature. Generally, they call for a 30-minute or longer period in warm or cool water. Spin or wring solution out of the garment before beginning the wash cycle. Elasticized garments should be soaked separately and for just a short period of time. Yellowing can occur with prolonged soaking.
Prewashing
Taking less time than soaking, a prewash provides an agitated washing of loads with heavy or greasy soil that might not come out in a single regular washing. Some washers have a prewash cycle that includes a short soak period; the washer may also advance to the regular wash automatically. Refer to appliance instructions for either an automatic cycle or for setting controls manually to agitate and then spin. A presoak product, detergent and/or other laundry additive should be used in a prewash. Follow with a regular wash using detergent according to label directions.
Pretreating
This involves treating and sometimes completely removing individual spots and stains prior to laundering. Some of the most common methods are:
*Using a prewash soil and stain remover
*Applying and rubbing in
***A liquid detergent - or -
***A paste of water and powder detergent - or -
***A laundry additive - or -
***Bar soap
*Applying and rubbing in
***A liquid detergent - or -
***A paste of water and powder detergent - or -
***A laundry additive - or -
***Bar soap
PRODUCTS FOR REMOVING STAINS
There are a number of laundry products and aids which can be used in stain treatment and removal. The most commonly used products and the stains that they are most effective on are listed below.
Detergents
Form: powders, liquids
Uses: effective in removing most soils
Powders: especially effective on clay and ground-in dirt
Liquids: especially effective on food, greasy and oily stains
Soaps
Form: powders, bars
Uses: When used with washing soda, soap is effective in removing crayon. Bars are especially effective in removing fabric softener, perspiration and tobacco stains
Detergent Boosters
Form: powders, liquids
Uses: especially effective in hard water
Bleaches
Form: sodium hypochlorite, oxygen, color removers
Uses:
Bleaches: All bleaches aid in stain removal and help whiten and brighten fabrics. Sodium hypochlorite bleach is a laundry disinfectant.
Bleaches: All bleaches aid in stain removal and help whiten and brighten fabrics. Sodium hypochlorite bleach is a laundry disinfectant.
Color Removers: reduce or completely remove colored dyes from garments. Effective in removing rust stains or dye stains which have transferred onto white garments
Enzyme Presoak Products Form: powdersUses: especially effective in removing protein stains such as egg, blood, grass, baby formula, dairy products, chocolate and body fluids
Prewash Soil and Stain RemoversForm: aerosols, pump sprays, gels, sticks, liquidsUses: especially effective on polyester fibers and on oil-based stains such as body soils, cosmetics, cooking oils, animal fats and motor oils
For Safety's Sake:
*Read instructions on all products and keep them out of children's reach during use and storage. *Keep products in their original labeled containers. Thoroughly wash any utensils used.
*DO NOT COMBINE STAIN REMOVAL PRODUCTS, especially ammonia and sodium hypochlorite bleach; some chemical mixtures may release irritating gases.
*Never use a highly flammable solvent such as gasoline because vapors can explode.
*Solvents such as cleaning fluid, denatured alcohol or turpentine should be used only in ` well-v`ntilate` room, `way from open flame and pilot lights. They should never be inhaled. Clothes treated with solvents should be rinsed before washing.
*DO NOT COMBINE STAIN REMOVAL PRODUCTS, especially ammonia and sodium hypochlorite bleach; some chemical mixtures may release irritating gases.
*Never use a highly flammable solvent such as gasoline because vapors can explode.
*Solvents such as cleaning fluid, denatured alcohol or turpentine should be used only in ` well-v`ntilate` room, `way from open flame and pilot lights. They should never be inhaled. Clothes treated with solvents should be rinsed before washing.
Sorting it Out
About Detergents
Washday Helpers
Label Savvy
Garment Savvy
Sorting Secrets
Spot Attack
Laundry Tips
About Detergents
Washday Helpers
Label Savvy
Garment Savvy
Sorting Secrets
Spot Attack
Laundry Tips
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